At What Katie Did we often get asked, "how overbust corsets look under clothing?" and for larger cup sizes, "are they comfortable enough to replace a bra?"

Let’s take a look at the word ‘corset’ for a start. Today, this word is used to describe all kinds of lingerie, tops and belts. When traditional corsetieres talk about corsets, they mean a completely non stretch garment with lacing at the back which you use to tighten the corset to (eventually) your desired shape.

Modern lingerie and fashion companies frequently use the term ‘corset’ for anything that fits closely to your torso. Pictured here is our 1950s inspired Merry Widow Basque, which would probably be called a ‘corset’ by any brand that doesn’t actually make ‘proper’ corsets!

It does sound like we’re throwing a little shade here, so let us backtrack just a little. Words and their meanings change over the years. In the late 19th and early 20th century the word corset meant a traditional non-stretch corset. As lingerie evolved in the 20th century, the word changed to corsetry to describe all kinds of shapewear from basques to corselettes to girdles, before moving onto the word shapewear that we used today. People who grew up wearing traditional corsets would continue to use the word ‘corset’ to describe their corsetry/shapewear.

As What Katie Did and other traditional corsetieres haven’t moved with the times in our language, maybe we’re in the wrong, hence using the words ‘traditional corset’ to describe the non stretch corsets in this feature.

While it’s easy to wear an underbust corset under clothing (known as ‘stealthing'), today overbust corsets tend to be worn as outerwear, or as a top to be seen under a sheer blouse. Overbust corsets were worn on a daily basis up until the first part of the 20th century. This look was before bras were commonly worn and the fashions at that time were designed to be worn with overbust corsets.

It is very rare for overbust corsets to have bra cups, so they don’t give a modern defined bust shape under clothing tending to flatten the underbust and push the top of the bust up. This can look amazing under a balconette, square neckline, but not so much with modern-stretch designs like tops, sweaters and knits.

Corsets can be very effective in supporting larger cup sizes. It would just mean commissioning a bespoke corset with cups, costing several hundred pounds. Not something that should be undertaken lightly especially now there are so many companies offering well fitting larger cup bras in just about every size.

If you are looking for a ‘corset’ to wear under clothing let us introduce you to the 1950s Merry Widow Basque. The original Merry Widow Basque was launched in 1953 by Warner’s and named after the 1952 movie, ‘The Merry Widow’ featuring Lana Turner (but intriguingly not featuring a Merry Widow Basque!). Also called the ‘Cinch-Bra’, it combined the cinching of a waist cincher with a strapless bra. Perfect for wearing beneath the strapless evening dresses of that era.